IF THERE’S ONE area in which the battle for the food dollar has met the battle for the climate head on, it’s meat. In particular, meat from grazing animals. Those who believe we should all abstain from eating meat have found the ultimate enemy in ruminants, or livestock whose digestive system releases methane, a potent greenhouse gas. According to the author of one scientific paper, the single best thing you can do for the environment is stop eating meat. His quote has appeared in headlines around the world and been used to energise plant-­based food proponents.

The problem is, it isn’t the best thing you can do.